March 10th is the annual Tibetan Uprising Day. Ever since HHDL fled Tibet in 1959 there have been protests against the Chinese in Tibet and in exile every year. As I've written about earlier, last year's March 10th uprisings were the most brutal in Tibet since 1959 and lasted almost a week. This year the only pictures we've seen out of Tibet are of Chinese forces entering Tibet in tanks by the thousands. My theory is that very few protests went down in Tibet this year because China has their thumb pressed down on them so hard. Since Uprising Day we haven't heard any news out of Tibet except that there is no news...I'm sure we'll know more in the coming weeks.
Here in exile thousands of Tibetan refugees tried to pile into the Suklakhang (temple) to hear DL's Uprising Day speach. The fam and I got there too late to pack ourselves in with everyone else, so Sangmo and I sword fought with our Tibetan flags until the march started. I got a translation of the speach in a pamphlet and let me tell you, DL made some pretty bold statements about how the Chinese government isn't playing fair.
the Girardia is taking over...I'll write more after I peal myself off of the bathroom floor :)
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Monday, March 16, 2009
Movin' On Up
So we've recently moved in with our homestays up in McLeod. It was a very tearful goodbye at Sarah but I totally lucked out with my famiy. My Pa-la is the only major electrician in town and so I think he's really well off. They have a washing machine and a stationary exercize bike. My Ama-la is the best cook I've ever met. The first dinner I had there I thought to myself "so this is what its like to have a home-cooked meal with love by mom"...no offense mom - but its probably the MSG that makes me like it so much. And they are ALWAYS trying to feed me. "Eat more! Eat more! Finish this!" I finally asked my language teacher to tell me how to say "No. Its impossible." (It's "meh. di mi cipa rey", in case you were wondering).
I have a 13 year old brother, Tenzin Kunga, who quickly became on of my favorite people in the world. He's English is amazing but he can't seem to get my name down. The whole family can't really seem to get it. They called me by my Tibetan name for the first few days, which I loved, but then they decided my English name sounds more like "taxi," so thats what Pa-la still calls me. Little bro just calls me Aja-la now, which means big sister, which I also love. The first day he helped me carried my backpacks to the house, but first put on his muscle shirt, insisted on carrying my huge trekking backpack, and kept telling me how easy it was as we stumbled our way through the forest to the house. What a cutie. Unfortunately, he went off to boarding school for the first time on Friday. He was super nervous, poor kid. I'm surprised at how much I miss him. He wrote me a very sweet goodbye letter saying that I'm his sister and he can't wait to come home to hang out with me next month. I've never had a brother before!
I also have a little 7 year old bundle-of-energy sister, Tenzin Sangmo. We were unbelievably fast friends...she's never had a sister before. She immediately stuck herself on my hip. The first night she told me she wanted to show me an Indian dance and started a little song-and-dance routine. She's quite good at dancing...but half way through she got a burst of energy and started jumping up and down on the bed yelling and giggling. "That's not an Indian dance." - Me "I know! I know!!!" -Sangmo. Yesterday I took her up to Bhagsunag to play in the waterfall. She giggled and squealed and ran around splashing pepole uncontrollably (I, of course, joined in with bursts of inner-child energy) in her underware and refused to dry off and denied being cold even as her teeth chattered. I taught her and Kunga "Go Fish" the other day. Big mistake. They went nuts over it. Every second I'm home its "Goldfish! goldfish!!!"
I have a 17 year old brother too, but I've never met him. He's at boarding school and shows no sign of ever wanting to come home, says Ama-la.
I think I live in one of the better houses in Mcleod. I have my own room with two beds and a tv, which is really fortunate as I now have girardia (ameobic dysentery was SO last week), so I'm free to groan and hate myself and curse my stomach in private. Many of the other students weren't so lucky with their families or their homes. Lauren is in a one-room house shared by 5 people, including a 1-year-old. Josh's family stuck him in a room with a 26-year-old woman whom we think they are trying to marry him off too...awkward. Elinor, who has a very strong personality, shares a room (which she affectionatly calls her hut) with a very bossy 30-year-old sister (whom she not-so-affectionatly calls The Nazi) and her mother. Casey was ridiculed by his sister for not being able to eat as many momo's as his host-grandfather. Carrie has to walk 20 minutes to get to a bathroom. So, yeah, I lucked out.
I have a 13 year old brother, Tenzin Kunga, who quickly became on of my favorite people in the world. He's English is amazing but he can't seem to get my name down. The whole family can't really seem to get it. They called me by my Tibetan name for the first few days, which I loved, but then they decided my English name sounds more like "taxi," so thats what Pa-la still calls me. Little bro just calls me Aja-la now, which means big sister, which I also love. The first day he helped me carried my backpacks to the house, but first put on his muscle shirt, insisted on carrying my huge trekking backpack, and kept telling me how easy it was as we stumbled our way through the forest to the house. What a cutie. Unfortunately, he went off to boarding school for the first time on Friday. He was super nervous, poor kid. I'm surprised at how much I miss him. He wrote me a very sweet goodbye letter saying that I'm his sister and he can't wait to come home to hang out with me next month. I've never had a brother before!
I also have a little 7 year old bundle-of-energy sister, Tenzin Sangmo. We were unbelievably fast friends...she's never had a sister before. She immediately stuck herself on my hip. The first night she told me she wanted to show me an Indian dance and started a little song-and-dance routine. She's quite good at dancing...but half way through she got a burst of energy and started jumping up and down on the bed yelling and giggling. "That's not an Indian dance." - Me "I know! I know!!!" -Sangmo. Yesterday I took her up to Bhagsunag to play in the waterfall. She giggled and squealed and ran around splashing pepole uncontrollably (I, of course, joined in with bursts of inner-child energy) in her underware and refused to dry off and denied being cold even as her teeth chattered. I taught her and Kunga "Go Fish" the other day. Big mistake. They went nuts over it. Every second I'm home its "Goldfish! goldfish!!!"
I have a 17 year old brother too, but I've never met him. He's at boarding school and shows no sign of ever wanting to come home, says Ama-la.
I think I live in one of the better houses in Mcleod. I have my own room with two beds and a tv, which is really fortunate as I now have girardia (ameobic dysentery was SO last week), so I'm free to groan and hate myself and curse my stomach in private. Many of the other students weren't so lucky with their families or their homes. Lauren is in a one-room house shared by 5 people, including a 1-year-old. Josh's family stuck him in a room with a 26-year-old woman whom we think they are trying to marry him off too...awkward. Elinor, who has a very strong personality, shares a room (which she affectionatly calls her hut) with a very bossy 30-year-old sister (whom she not-so-affectionatly calls The Nazi) and her mother. Casey was ridiculed by his sister for not being able to eat as many momo's as his host-grandfather. Carrie has to walk 20 minutes to get to a bathroom. So, yeah, I lucked out.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Catching Up Take 2! "Losar! and Amoebic Dysentery!"
February 25th, 2009
Wednesday – First Day of Losar
Today is the first day of Losar, the Tibetan New Year. It’s the biggest three days of the year. Most Tibetans consider it their birthday and don’t pay attention to when their birthday really is. My friend, Wobar, from Ladakh says he's 21, but he made that up a few years ago. We think he's actually 24 or 25 but no one actually knows. Its so weird how age-obsessed Americans are when it SO doesn't matter. Losar is usually filled with dancing and drinking and celebrating and prayers and games. It’s the only time that the students here really let loose and stop working. It starts the day before when you turn your house inside-out cleaning and purifying for the new year. Its not at all like the American New Year, where we have one night of partying, one day of hang over, then its back to work on Monday. They really view Losar as the beginning of something new, a real reason to celebrate. The first day is family day where everyone stays home and drinks chang, a Tibetan beer. The second day is going around to peoples houses (at school, houses = dorm rooms), and drinks chang, and the third day is communal celebrations, where everyone gets sloshed with more chang and plays.
Unfortunately, the exiled community has cancelled Losar celebrations in memory of those who died in the March 10th uprisings last year. Last year was the most brutal and violent year in Tibet since HHDL fled in 1959. Thousands were killed, burned alive, arrested and tortured by the Chinese government. The Tibetans wanted to take advantage of the attention China would get during the Beijing Olympic Games to bring their situation to the world’s notice. They started their campaign with the annual protests that have taken place on March 10th since 1959, but last year it turned into a weeklong ordeal with hundreds of protests popping up independently of each other all over Tibet. Canceling the Losar celebrations for this year was an idea originating in Tibet, but the Chinese government has ordered the Tibetans in Tibet to celebrate or be fined – way to be immature, China. The Tibetans in exile have decided to carry out the canceling of the Losar celebrations in respect for those suffering in Tibet. We still have the week off and we still have prayers and offerings (in fact, we woke up at the butt crack of dawn to stuff ourselves into chupas, the traditional Tibetan dress, to go to Pooja, or prayers, this morning) but there are no performances, dancing, or drinking – however I just played volleyball for two and a half hours, had a jam sesh with Tawni and our German friend Lina, and sunbathed on the roof, which is a party enough for me. Instead of chang we drank “appy apple juice” and called it chang.
Fun story time! So 2 and a half hours of volleyball equals some crazy sunburn..but thats not the story. Tawni and I were peppering with a Tibetan monk, who everyone was calling "Rimpoche." All day I was thinking "what an odd name, who names their kid Rimpoche?" Because (in laymen's terms) in Tibetan Buddhism, a Rimpoche is a recognized reincarnated high scholar or Lama (priest) who is usually head of a school or monestary. So, for simplicity, I'd been calling this guy "Rimpi" all day - less of a mouthfull. He and I hung out a lot, played basketball, ate dinner with some mutual friends...and then I find out he's ACTUALLY a Rimpoche (big deal, p.s.). I freak out b/c my new bff is a freaking Rimpoche! Score! He's now tied for first on my favorite monk list. The other #1 is Sakya, an adorable 18-yr-old monk from Bhutan who never fails to giggle uncontrollably as he takes off his robes to play a pick-up game of basketball.
Anyway, back to Losar: originally, we were all pretty bummed we’d be missing out on the real Losar that everyone talks about and gets excited about. But Elinor put it well when she said she respected and was moved that everyone was so willing to give up their only three days of debauchery and fun whereas in America, we look forward to Memorial Day because of the sales. And so, this afternoon, we’re going to go up to Mcleod to hang out with the hunger strikers and meet up with our roommates at their various nunneries.
So apparently, our new Tibetan friends refuse to let us not experience the "real" Losar. It started out as just a few of us on the roof watching the sun set...then someone brought some speakers, then someone else brought a backpack full of whiskey, then our teachers showed up and all the Tibetans freaked out because they are afraid of authority figures...but the teachers obviously didn't care that we were partying, joined in, and everyone relaxed and we ended up playing until 4 in the morning dancing on the roof. Quality. A strapping young man, who happens to be a Tibetan pop star (youtube his breakthrough song, Tenzin Dolma) by the name of Lobsang Delek drunkenly confessed his attraction to me and I got first-hand experience of the sleezy overly-forward Tibetan flirting culture. Next day I found out that everyone was talking about it and I'm automatically his girlfriend...guess I don't really get a say in this one so I'm just gonna go with it.
Tonight I also received my Tibetan name. Tawni was trying to introduce me to one of the Tibetan students, who just couldn’t get my name down. So she said the name “Tsomo” is the closest Tibetan name to “Stacey”. “Tsomo” means Goddess of the Ocean. Lobsung Delek (henceforth referred to as “LD” to distinguish him from the other ten hundred Lobsungs I know), then gave me my second name “Yengchen,” which means Goddess of Music…because, he says, I inspire him. PUKE!
February 26th - Losar Day 2
Woke up and trekked up to Mcleod for an audience with Dema Loche Rimpoche. He told us to study hard and care about what we do and to not be late to lunch at the IBD. Josh, Becky, Elinor, Norsung, Choenyi, Karma-la, Wobar, and I drove into Dharmakot for lunch #2 because they (our Tibetan friends) said that the best pizza in northern India was there….it was ok pizza, I guess.
Becks and I later went back to McLeod and met up with Ani Choezin (my roommate) and her friend Ani Deki, who has tuberculosis…we call her Ani TB-la. She really likes having a nickname. I was sooo happy to see Choezin. She’s been gone all of Losar and next week she’ll be in Delhi with her brother.
That’s two weeks without a roommate! I honestly didn't want to let go of her hand - espeically because it distanced me from all the other Westerners that have shown up in McLeod almost overnight. I've found that I'm racist against other Westerners and nothing makes me more pissed off that someone coming into ANY foreign community without the proper respect or knowledge of what is and isn't acceptable. I saw a girl in a tanktop with her bra straps out and I've never been so offended or felt so incited to violence in my entire life. Its just so easy to judge...I gotta work on that one.
Tonight the party in LD’s room and moved to a dance party in the foreigner’s guesthouse. Love confession #2 came my way from Wobar…awkward. They really love the foreigners. Becky has a new boyfriend also named Lobsung – but her relationship is slightly more two-sided than my own.
February 27th – Losar Day 3
Apparently, only girls were at Pooja this morning. All the men were too hungover.
Not too much happened today except we all decided that we’ve never been more happy or more at peace than when we are here at Sarah. I woke up at the very late hour of 9AM and just chilled all day. I saw LD at lunch today and blatantly ignored him. I really don’t know how to handle this situation. We’re in middle school.
Tonight started out at Pa-la’s (father) room. Pa-la is the (very) old groundskeeper and rides around on a scooter. He feeds the cats that hang around campus and they follow him everywhere. He doesn’t speak a word of English, which is understandable as he only has a few teeth left. Anyway, the third day of Losar is meant for communal celebration to Pa-la invited us all to his house and got us sloshed. He really knows how to throw a party. Our glasses were never empty but seemingly refilled themselves magically of whiskey. We had our first taste of REAL chang which was DELICIOUS and tangy and fruity and surprisingly not very alcoholic. Tawni was impressed by how Becky and I could pound the whiskey – props to sorority life!
Later we met up with our friends, hiked behind school and had a mini-Losar-style bonfire. LD snuggled up next to me and was watching me all night creepy-Bollywood-style. I told him was creeping me out. “What is creepy?” was all I got out of him.
February 28th - Losar Day +1!
A few of us foreigners and some Tibetan friends trekked up to Bhagsunag, a “waterfall” above Mcleod Ganj. As you can see, it was more of a trickle down a
rock than a waterfall – bloody draught, bloody global warming. There was minimal snowfall this year in the Himalayas, snowfall people rely on here for water. Usually the mountains are completely white almost down to Mcleod, or so I’ve been told. But the mountains are still mostly brown. My roommate clicks her tongue in disapproval at them often.
We decided to hike up beyond the waterfall and found a sick little hippie café, called Shiva Café, with a natural swimming pool thing, drums to bang on, and a dijerydoo (sp?). 2 hours later we decided we’d been bum enough so we trekked back down.
Becks and I met up with the Ani-la’s again and went to Lhasa Café for dinner – never again! Becky and I were on the floor in anguish most of the night. Oops. We then accompanied our roommates and the rest of Mcleod on a circumambulation of the temple during a candle light vigil remembering a monk that was shot by Chinese officials today in Tibet during a protest against celebrating Losar. More tongue clicks from Ani-la.
Becky has confessed she wants to bring Lobsang back to the states. I’m obsessed with Rimpoche…I hear he’s a Kague sect monk! That means he can marry!!! Score!
March 7th – Amoebic Dysentery!
So I’ve had the plague the last three days. It was pretty much awesome. A few of us came down with some crazy stomach bug and we had fevers peaking at 102, shakes, and crazy diarrhea - I won’t bore you with the rest of the gory details. Everyone has been great though and really helpful and understanding. More than once I woke up to bottles of water and plates of rice next to me. I quarantined myself in the library where I could lay unmoving underneath the fan for 36 hours straight. It was actually a quite pleasant sickness, all things considered.
Tonight was also the goodbye talent show put on by the Emory students. We had two days to throw together a show for our Tibetan friends and it was STRESSFUL. Probably the most stress I’ve felt since I’ve been here. Some of the girls really wanted to put on an a cappella song (in two days…unheard of) so I threw together a half-done arrangement of Always Be My Baby by Mariah Carey. Everyone picked it up really fast but forgot every note by the time we were on stage. Whatever. It was still fun.
Wednesday – First Day of Losar
Today is the first day of Losar, the Tibetan New Year. It’s the biggest three days of the year. Most Tibetans consider it their birthday and don’t pay attention to when their birthday really is. My friend, Wobar, from Ladakh says he's 21, but he made that up a few years ago. We think he's actually 24 or 25 but no one actually knows. Its so weird how age-obsessed Americans are when it SO doesn't matter. Losar is usually filled with dancing and drinking and celebrating and prayers and games. It’s the only time that the students here really let loose and stop working. It starts the day before when you turn your house inside-out cleaning and purifying for the new year. Its not at all like the American New Year, where we have one night of partying, one day of hang over, then its back to work on Monday. They really view Losar as the beginning of something new, a real reason to celebrate. The first day is family day where everyone stays home and drinks chang, a Tibetan beer. The second day is going around to peoples houses (at school, houses = dorm rooms), and drinks chang, and the third day is communal celebrations, where everyone gets sloshed with more chang and plays.
Unfortunately, the exiled community has cancelled Losar celebrations in memory of those who died in the March 10th uprisings last year. Last year was the most brutal and violent year in Tibet since HHDL fled in 1959. Thousands were killed, burned alive, arrested and tortured by the Chinese government. The Tibetans wanted to take advantage of the attention China would get during the Beijing Olympic Games to bring their situation to the world’s notice. They started their campaign with the annual protests that have taken place on March 10th since 1959, but last year it turned into a weeklong ordeal with hundreds of protests popping up independently of each other all over Tibet. Canceling the Losar celebrations for this year was an idea originating in Tibet, but the Chinese government has ordered the Tibetans in Tibet to celebrate or be fined – way to be immature, China. The Tibetans in exile have decided to carry out the canceling of the Losar celebrations in respect for those suffering in Tibet. We still have the week off and we still have prayers and offerings (in fact, we woke up at the butt crack of dawn to stuff ourselves into chupas, the traditional Tibetan dress, to go to Pooja, or prayers, this morning) but there are no performances, dancing, or drinking – however I just played volleyball for two and a half hours, had a jam sesh with Tawni and our German friend Lina, and sunbathed on the roof, which is a party enough for me. Instead of chang we drank “appy apple juice” and called it chang.
Fun story time! So 2 and a half hours of volleyball equals some crazy sunburn..but thats not the story. Tawni and I were peppering with a Tibetan monk, who everyone was calling "Rimpoche." All day I was thinking "what an odd name, who names their kid Rimpoche?" Because (in laymen's terms) in Tibetan Buddhism, a Rimpoche is a recognized reincarnated high scholar or Lama (priest) who is usually head of a school or monestary. So, for simplicity, I'd been calling this guy "Rimpi" all day - less of a mouthfull. He and I hung out a lot, played basketball, ate dinner with some mutual friends...and then I find out he's ACTUALLY a Rimpoche (big deal, p.s.). I freak out b/c my new bff is a freaking Rimpoche! Score! He's now tied for first on my favorite monk list. The other #1 is Sakya, an adorable 18-yr-old monk from Bhutan who never fails to giggle uncontrollably as he takes off his robes to play a pick-up game of basketball.
Anyway, back to Losar: originally, we were all pretty bummed we’d be missing out on the real Losar that everyone talks about and gets excited about. But Elinor put it well when she said she respected and was moved that everyone was so willing to give up their only three days of debauchery and fun whereas in America, we look forward to Memorial Day because of the sales. And so, this afternoon, we’re going to go up to Mcleod to hang out with the hunger strikers and meet up with our roommates at their various nunneries.
Tonight I also received my Tibetan name. Tawni was trying to introduce me to one of the Tibetan students, who just couldn’t get my name down. So she said the name “Tsomo” is the closest Tibetan name to “Stacey”. “Tsomo” means Goddess of the Ocean. Lobsung Delek (henceforth referred to as “LD” to distinguish him from the other ten hundred Lobsungs I know), then gave me my second name “Yengchen,” which means Goddess of Music…because, he says, I inspire him. PUKE!
February 26th - Losar Day 2
Woke up and trekked up to Mcleod for an audience with Dema Loche Rimpoche. He told us to study hard and care about what we do and to not be late to lunch at the IBD. Josh, Becky, Elinor, Norsung, Choenyi, Karma-la, Wobar, and I drove into Dharmakot for lunch #2 because they (our Tibetan friends) said that the best pizza in northern India was there….it was ok pizza, I guess.
Becks and I later went back to McLeod and met up with Ani Choezin (my roommate) and her friend Ani Deki, who has tuberculosis…we call her Ani TB-la. She really likes having a nickname. I was sooo happy to see Choezin. She’s been gone all of Losar and next week she’ll be in Delhi with her brother.
That’s two weeks without a roommate! I honestly didn't want to let go of her hand - espeically because it distanced me from all the other Westerners that have shown up in McLeod almost overnight. I've found that I'm racist against other Westerners and nothing makes me more pissed off that someone coming into ANY foreign community without the proper respect or knowledge of what is and isn't acceptable. I saw a girl in a tanktop with her bra straps out and I've never been so offended or felt so incited to violence in my entire life. Its just so easy to judge...I gotta work on that one.Tonight the party in LD’s room and moved to a dance party in the foreigner’s guesthouse. Love confession #2 came my way from Wobar…awkward. They really love the foreigners. Becky has a new boyfriend also named Lobsung – but her relationship is slightly more two-sided than my own.
February 27th – Losar Day 3
Apparently, only girls were at Pooja this morning. All the men were too hungover.
Not too much happened today except we all decided that we’ve never been more happy or more at peace than when we are here at Sarah. I woke up at the very late hour of 9AM and just chilled all day. I saw LD at lunch today and blatantly ignored him. I really don’t know how to handle this situation. We’re in middle school.
Tonight started out at Pa-la’s (father) room. Pa-la is the (very) old groundskeeper and rides around on a scooter. He feeds the cats that hang around campus and they follow him everywhere. He doesn’t speak a word of English, which is understandable as he only has a few teeth left. Anyway, the third day of Losar is meant for communal celebration to Pa-la invited us all to his house and got us sloshed. He really knows how to throw a party. Our glasses were never empty but seemingly refilled themselves magically of whiskey. We had our first taste of REAL chang which was DELICIOUS and tangy and fruity and surprisingly not very alcoholic. Tawni was impressed by how Becky and I could pound the whiskey – props to sorority life!
Later we met up with our friends, hiked behind school and had a mini-Losar-style bonfire. LD snuggled up next to me and was watching me all night creepy-Bollywood-style. I told him was creeping me out. “What is creepy?” was all I got out of him.
February 28th - Losar Day +1!
A few of us foreigners and some Tibetan friends trekked up to Bhagsunag, a “waterfall” above Mcleod Ganj. As you can see, it was more of a trickle down a
rock than a waterfall – bloody draught, bloody global warming. There was minimal snowfall this year in the Himalayas, snowfall people rely on here for water. Usually the mountains are completely white almost down to Mcleod, or so I’ve been told. But the mountains are still mostly brown. My roommate clicks her tongue in disapproval at them often.We decided to hike up beyond the waterfall and found a sick little hippie café, called Shiva Café, with a natural swimming pool thing, drums to bang on, and a dijerydoo (sp?). 2 hours later we decided we’d been bum enough so we trekked back down.
Becks and I met up with the Ani-la’s again and went to Lhasa Café for dinner – never again! Becky and I were on the floor in anguish most of the night. Oops. We then accompanied our roommates and the rest of Mcleod on a circumambulation of the temple during a candle light vigil remembering a monk that was shot by Chinese officials today in Tibet during a protest against celebrating Losar. More tongue clicks from Ani-la.
Becky has confessed she wants to bring Lobsang back to the states. I’m obsessed with Rimpoche…I hear he’s a Kague sect monk! That means he can marry!!! Score!
March 7th – Amoebic Dysentery!
So I’ve had the plague the last three days. It was pretty much awesome. A few of us came down with some crazy stomach bug and we had fevers peaking at 102, shakes, and crazy diarrhea - I won’t bore you with the rest of the gory details. Everyone has been great though and really helpful and understanding. More than once I woke up to bottles of water and plates of rice next to me. I quarantined myself in the library where I could lay unmoving underneath the fan for 36 hours straight. It was actually a quite pleasant sickness, all things considered.
Tonight was also the goodbye talent show put on by the Emory students. We had two days to throw together a show for our Tibetan friends and it was STRESSFUL. Probably the most stress I’ve felt since I’ve been here. Some of the girls really wanted to put on an a cappella song (in two days…unheard of) so I threw together a half-done arrangement of Always Be My Baby by Mariah Carey. Everyone picked it up really fast but forgot every note by the time we were on stage. Whatever. It was still fun.
Catching Up Take 1 - Pictures to Come! "School and Amritsar"
February 24, 2009
K so guess its been a while...my bad. We’ve been super busy with class work and weekend trips and maybe sleeping sometimes. But we’ve been so busy I haven’t even meditated or yoga’ed in about 2 weeks. Serious bummer, but I’m certainly not lacking in experiences.
K, catch up time: So our philosophy teacher is the sickest person I’ve ever met. She’s a German nun who will become the first female Geshe next year. People say she speaks Tibetan and English better than German. She also speaks English with an Australian accent, which adds a fun little flavor to our Dharma discussions. We’ve been talking about a lot of stuff that’s pretty much rocked my views on the mind and karma and blah blah but reincarnation still eludes me. In fact, the whole Buddhist philosophy of mind has piqued my interest and I think I’m going to do my research project on how Western neuroscience and the Buddhist view of the mind compare. I want to bring in the effects of meditation on the brain and how one can train and shape the mind through certain meditation practices. Ani-la (our philosophy teacher) is teaching us a meditation technique that involves observing the mind itself, a practice that will certainly be helpful in my attempt to "locate" it in my research. I also want to bring in traditional Tibetan medicine and analyze how health affects the mind. Should keep me busy for a while.
On another note, our philosophy classes are also furthering my disillusions with Buddhism and specifically, Shangri-la, or the perceived mysticism of Buddhism. Unfortunately, Buddhism is revealing itself more and more to me as another religion machine despite its urging to question and criticize its major components rather than accept them on faith. Our questions about reincarnation and karma and other crazies have increasingly been answered with a “be skeptical…but accept it.” Or at least, that’s how it seems to us at the moment. I’ll keep you posted.
So three weekends ago
(wow, has it really been that long since I’ve been on a computer?) a few of us decided to take a little day trip to Kongra Fort for some R and R and maybe get some reading done. I’m still unsure of what Kongra Fort was actually used for but it was a sweet little ruins in the mountains with few tourists and lots of…wildlife. My friend Carrie left her bag unattended for thirty seconds – just enough time for a vicious little monkey to upturn it and mug her. At first we though he was going for the ipod to sell on ebay,
but when he did a nosedive off the cliff with just her banana we wrote him off just another mundane, banana-stealing primate. How typical. The next day a few of us decided to go on a walk behind Sarah campus and stumbled across a waterfall. That's a little view of our favorite mountain range, ya know, the Himalayas, that we saw on our way. And that's Lara taking off her shirt for her first real "shower" in a month!
There is a performance school up the street. Tibetan students from South India audition and travel all the way up to Dharmasala to learn traditional Tibetan instruments, songs, and dances. They enroll in the school because they believe they are doing their part in the Tibetan struggle by keeping their Tibetan traditions alive. Most of them are very committed to the cause. They are much younger than the students here at Sarah, mostly about 15-21 years old. We went up to visit a few weeks ago and they immediately offered us dance lessons in return for English lessons. So now I’m a professional Tibetan dancer AND I’ve learned how to teach English. We’ve also been teaching them other styles of dances. Last week my friend Allie taught them a ballet routine and this week we’re teaching them how to salsa
Febrary 25th, 2009
Wendesday – The Longest 24 Hours I’ve Ever Experienced
Josh, Elinor, Becky, and I went to Amritsar on Feb 13th. Amritsar is the holy Sikh city on the boarder of Indian and Pakistan. It’s in Punjab and it’s like a whole other country. It’s more like Delhi in that it’s busy, dirty, and crowded but there are women everywhere and its socially more Western-ish. People are bigger and taller and it’s hotter and SO beautiful. Elinor said it’s like what she pictured India to be like; big white and gold buildings with the sun shinning off the water and tons of colorful people and food everywhere. The weekend was so packed and intense that I’m just gonna go ahead and list it out:
Feb 13th 7:30PM Took a two-hour bus ride from Gaggle (below Sarah) to Pathankot to take an overnight train to Amritsar. Unfortunately, there were too many of us and we had too many big bags and the bus got so overcrowded that there were two guys literally out the door hanging onto the side of the bus. Elinor scored a seat but at the cost of a man intentionally sticking his butt on her face.
9:30PM Arrive in Pathankot.
The next train as at “11:15PM” but in India you have to add 3 hours to everything. We decided to grab some tea at the only shop still open. We received some quality Indian hospitality by the assistant manager of the shop who told us he was starting his Indian pop star career. He was going on tour the next day and did a little song and dance for us…he was actually pretty legit. He offered to take us down to Rajistan with him the next day and give us VIP seats at his concert, but we told him we had to take a rain check. 11PM We show up at the train station to wait (and wait and wait) for the train. We meet two really awesome English people, Joel and Nina, who were taking the year off from med school at Sheffield University to travel around the world. They said they had missed the earlier train to Amritsar and had been waiting for hours because the trains came whenever they felt like it. We hung out with them for the next few hours and shared a sleeper car with them when the train finally came at around 12:50AM.
Feb 14th (Valentine’s Day!)
12:50AM So…its raining like crazy and the sleeper car may as well be flooded. We all curl up on the bunks for a freezing cold, very wet nap. Elinor is so cold I literally sleep on top of her.
3:30AM Arrive in Amritsar groggy and cold. The six of us shared a auto rickshaw to the Golden Templed and parted ways – Joel and Nina went to find a room and we went straight to the Temple to watch the sunrise. We checked in our shoes,
trudged through feet washing water, and stopped short when at our first glance at the Golden Temple…it was stunning and took us completely by surprise. We got there just in time to watch the Book Awakening ceremony. In the Sikh tradition, they worship the Book of the Gurus, a compilation of the major teachings of their gurus. The Book lives inside the temple and someone is always chanting from it while it is awake – which is from 4AM to 10PM everyday. The Awakening ceremony involves a lot of pomp and circumstance with chanting, horns, drums, and a huge procession over the water and into the temple. After the ceremony we decided to go find a room to drop our stuff off and come back in time for the sunrise.
5:30AM As Westerners, we had trouble finding a room. The Golden Temple is the pilgrimage destination for Sikhs and the hostels around the area are meant as free lodging for pilgrims. Obviously, we weren’t pilgrims and so were continually turned down. We finally found a room at Guru Dwala, the oldest and most popular of the pilgrimage hostels. We slipped the attendant a few rupees and he gave the four of us a private room – otherwise we would be three white girls and a huge white guy sleeping in the over packed courtyard with two hundred plus people – not the safest idea. There was a dirty sleeping dred locked man curled up in front of the door to our room and the attendant pulled him on his mattress pad out of the way, the sleeping guy didn’t even notice. It was a really great tiny, dirty, little room with a cabinet, three beds (which we pushed together, better for cuddling!), and light bulb that didn’t turn off. We soon fell in love with our accommodations and honestly
considered it home. 6:30AM We return to the temple to watch the sunrise bundled up in all our blankets. We are in a significantly better mood sans backpacks and sleepingbags and set up shop at the edge of the pool. It was so peaceful and beautiful and we could see the sun and the moon opposite each other over the Temple. The Golden 
Temple grew brighter and brighter and the fish came right up to our feet to watch us watch them. Every Sikh must always have the “5 K’s” on their person at all time. I don’t know what the proper K name is for them but they have to have a dagger or knife, a specific bracelet, a turban, some special underpants, and 
something else that I’m forgetting right now. While we were sitting at the Temple, Sikh men were taking their ritual baths with their huge swords and people who were up early enough were circumambulating the pool. The Temple attendants were very holy men with huge beards carrying spears. We desperately 
wanted pictures of these attendants so Becky posed for a picture in front of one so we could pretend we were taking a picture of her… 
7:15AM Parantas for breafast!!! It’s our favorite Punjabi food and we pretty much stuffed our face with them whenever we saw them on the street. I wanted to buy them in bulk and store them in my pockets and bathe in them, but I resisted. They are spicy crepe-like things filled with potato or cheese or cauliflower that is drowned in butter and spicy chic pea dal. It’s the most wonderful experience for the mouth. By this time we are so tired that we aren’t tired anymore and decide to walk around the city. We randomly ran into the Jallianwala Bagh memorial where the British famously massacred a peaceful Indian protest in 1919. It was really exciting to find it because we all remembered learning about it in school and never expected to find ourselves standing in front of it. It was a beautiful memorial with gardens and grassy areas. Interestingly, it wasn’t a solemn and distant memorial like what one would find in the West. It looked like a nice place to hang out in the sun and bring you kids to fly kites.
9:30AM Eventually we left Jallianwala Bagh and wandered around some more. It became increasingly apparent that we were the only white people in Amritsar as people blatently stared at us and wished us a Happy Valentine’s Day from windows three stories up. A man approached me and asked where I was from. I told him USA and he said he would love it if we came into his all-girls’ school to meet his students and have tea. We accepted and were immediately bombarded by girls who wanted “snaps” and our autographs and to shake our hands and wish us Happy Valentine’s Day (picture at right is me signing a girl's hand).
It 
was the most bizarre experience and we’ve never felt more loved on V-day. We check our watches 
thinking it’s dinner time, but its only 11 in the morning, so we go back to our humble abode and pass out. 1:30PM Wake up and return to the Temple for some relaxing introspection in the shade overlooking the pool. Seriously consider taking a swim, its 900 degrees. We decide that no pilgrimage to Amritsar is complete without taking a traditional communal lunch. Sikh temples always provide free meals and accommodations for travelers. It was some of the best food we’ve had on the trip yet. It was really amazing how efficient the lunches are. Hundreds of people file in, sit in neat rows on the floor, and people run by spilling dal and chipati (bread) into bowls (see picture to the right. Guy with bucket has dal, Becky and Elinor tucking in). Everyone eats 
quickly, leaves, and the next few hundred people file in and they do it all over again. On our way out we were stopped by a man offering tea. Its our 6th cup of tea of the day and a few minutes into it we find out that the group of men we are drinking tea with are very important and one is the mayor of Amritsar or something... Elinor lets it slip that she's single and Josh was just our classmate and she was instatnly swarmed with men...as was Josh. They really loved Josh and his tallness and blondness in this state. Eventually we were asked to leave because we were creating a scene and a traffic jam. As we left the building we were again swarmed with handshakes and "snaps" and happy valentine's day wishes and "this is my mother, and this is my sister, and this is my cousin-brother he is singer..."
5PM Rickshaw to Durgiand...we think it was some kind of Hindi slash Sikh temple thing. Shindi temple? Anyway, it was awesome and they gave us straight up sugar clumps as offerings.
7:15 PM "Hey guys, what time do you think it is?" -Stacey
"9:30"-Elinor
"7:15!" -Stacey
"No way..." -Elinor
Ate some sketchy street chowmien for dinner #1. Didn't get sick. Sweet!
7:50 PM Went to "The Brother's" for dinner #2. GREAT food. Had the equivalent of 3 meals for about six bucks. Walked aroudn some more, found a dried fruit stand and loaded up for the roommates.
11PM Pass out.
Feb 15th
7:15AM "Wake up" and blink drearilly, strange guys sitting otuside our door watching us walk in and out to brush our teeth. They were the only guys in the courtyard...they really didnt have to be sitting right in front of our door.
8:20AM B-fast at same parantas place.
9:30AM Train to Pathankot. Just made it! About an hour into the ride we had a particularly long stop in front of a sugarcane field. Some young Sikh men got off and started to play sword fight with the sugarcane. They broght a bunch of stalks back onto the train and showed us how to chew them. We were sticky for the rest of the ride.
4PM Got back to Sarah in one piece dirty, travel worn, and sooo happy to be back. It was amazing how much we found we'd missed campus. Reveled in a bucket shower happily. Everyone was jealous of our adventures. We're pretty much the coolest people we know. End scene.
K so guess its been a while...my bad. We’ve been super busy with class work and weekend trips and maybe sleeping sometimes. But we’ve been so busy I haven’t even meditated or yoga’ed in about 2 weeks. Serious bummer, but I’m certainly not lacking in experiences.
K, catch up time: So our philosophy teacher is the sickest person I’ve ever met. She’s a German nun who will become the first female Geshe next year. People say she speaks Tibetan and English better than German. She also speaks English with an Australian accent, which adds a fun little flavor to our Dharma discussions. We’ve been talking about a lot of stuff that’s pretty much rocked my views on the mind and karma and blah blah but reincarnation still eludes me. In fact, the whole Buddhist philosophy of mind has piqued my interest and I think I’m going to do my research project on how Western neuroscience and the Buddhist view of the mind compare. I want to bring in the effects of meditation on the brain and how one can train and shape the mind through certain meditation practices. Ani-la (our philosophy teacher) is teaching us a meditation technique that involves observing the mind itself, a practice that will certainly be helpful in my attempt to "locate" it in my research. I also want to bring in traditional Tibetan medicine and analyze how health affects the mind. Should keep me busy for a while.
On another note, our philosophy classes are also furthering my disillusions with Buddhism and specifically, Shangri-la, or the perceived mysticism of Buddhism. Unfortunately, Buddhism is revealing itself more and more to me as another religion machine despite its urging to question and criticize its major components rather than accept them on faith. Our questions about reincarnation and karma and other crazies have increasingly been answered with a “be skeptical…but accept it.” Or at least, that’s how it seems to us at the moment. I’ll keep you posted.
So three weekends ago
(wow, has it really been that long since I’ve been on a computer?) a few of us decided to take a little day trip to Kongra Fort for some R and R and maybe get some reading done. I’m still unsure of what Kongra Fort was actually used for but it was a sweet little ruins in the mountains with few tourists and lots of…wildlife. My friend Carrie left her bag unattended for thirty seconds – just enough time for a vicious little monkey to upturn it and mug her. At first we though he was going for the ipod to sell on ebay,
but when he did a nosedive off the cliff with just her banana we wrote him off just another mundane, banana-stealing primate. How typical. The next day a few of us decided to go on a walk behind Sarah campus and stumbled across a waterfall. That's a little view of our favorite mountain range, ya know, the Himalayas, that we saw on our way. And that's Lara taking off her shirt for her first real "shower" in a month!
There is a performance school up the street. Tibetan students from South India audition and travel all the way up to Dharmasala to learn traditional Tibetan instruments, songs, and dances. They enroll in the school because they believe they are doing their part in the Tibetan struggle by keeping their Tibetan traditions alive. Most of them are very committed to the cause. They are much younger than the students here at Sarah, mostly about 15-21 years old. We went up to visit a few weeks ago and they immediately offered us dance lessons in return for English lessons. So now I’m a professional Tibetan dancer AND I’ve learned how to teach English. We’ve also been teaching them other styles of dances. Last week my friend Allie taught them a ballet routine and this week we’re teaching them how to salsaFebrary 25th, 2009
Wendesday – The Longest 24 Hours I’ve Ever Experienced
Josh, Elinor, Becky, and I went to Amritsar on Feb 13th. Amritsar is the holy Sikh city on the boarder of Indian and Pakistan. It’s in Punjab and it’s like a whole other country. It’s more like Delhi in that it’s busy, dirty, and crowded but there are women everywhere and its socially more Western-ish. People are bigger and taller and it’s hotter and SO beautiful. Elinor said it’s like what she pictured India to be like; big white and gold buildings with the sun shinning off the water and tons of colorful people and food everywhere. The weekend was so packed and intense that I’m just gonna go ahead and list it out:
Feb 13th 7:30PM Took a two-hour bus ride from Gaggle (below Sarah) to Pathankot to take an overnight train to Amritsar. Unfortunately, there were too many of us and we had too many big bags and the bus got so overcrowded that there were two guys literally out the door hanging onto the side of the bus. Elinor scored a seat but at the cost of a man intentionally sticking his butt on her face.
9:30PM Arrive in Pathankot.
The next train as at “11:15PM” but in India you have to add 3 hours to everything. We decided to grab some tea at the only shop still open. We received some quality Indian hospitality by the assistant manager of the shop who told us he was starting his Indian pop star career. He was going on tour the next day and did a little song and dance for us…he was actually pretty legit. He offered to take us down to Rajistan with him the next day and give us VIP seats at his concert, but we told him we had to take a rain check. 11PM We show up at the train station to wait (and wait and wait) for the train. We meet two really awesome English people, Joel and Nina, who were taking the year off from med school at Sheffield University to travel around the world. They said they had missed the earlier train to Amritsar and had been waiting for hours because the trains came whenever they felt like it. We hung out with them for the next few hours and shared a sleeper car with them when the train finally came at around 12:50AM.Feb 14th (Valentine’s Day!)
12:50AM So…its raining like crazy and the sleeper car may as well be flooded. We all curl up on the bunks for a freezing cold, very wet nap. Elinor is so cold I literally sleep on top of her.
3:30AM Arrive in Amritsar groggy and cold. The six of us shared a auto rickshaw to the Golden Templed and parted ways – Joel and Nina went to find a room and we went straight to the Temple to watch the sunrise. We checked in our shoes,
trudged through feet washing water, and stopped short when at our first glance at the Golden Temple…it was stunning and took us completely by surprise. We got there just in time to watch the Book Awakening ceremony. In the Sikh tradition, they worship the Book of the Gurus, a compilation of the major teachings of their gurus. The Book lives inside the temple and someone is always chanting from it while it is awake – which is from 4AM to 10PM everyday. The Awakening ceremony involves a lot of pomp and circumstance with chanting, horns, drums, and a huge procession over the water and into the temple. After the ceremony we decided to go find a room to drop our stuff off and come back in time for the sunrise.5:30AM As Westerners, we had trouble finding a room. The Golden Temple is the pilgrimage destination for Sikhs and the hostels around the area are meant as free lodging for pilgrims. Obviously, we weren’t pilgrims and so were continually turned down. We finally found a room at Guru Dwala, the oldest and most popular of the pilgrimage hostels. We slipped the attendant a few rupees and he gave the four of us a private room – otherwise we would be three white girls and a huge white guy sleeping in the over packed courtyard with two hundred plus people – not the safest idea. There was a dirty sleeping dred locked man curled up in front of the door to our room and the attendant pulled him on his mattress pad out of the way, the sleeping guy didn’t even notice. It was a really great tiny, dirty, little room with a cabinet, three beds (which we pushed together, better for cuddling!), and light bulb that didn’t turn off. We soon fell in love with our accommodations and honestly
considered it home. 6:30AM We return to the temple to watch the sunrise bundled up in all our blankets. We are in a significantly better mood sans backpacks and sleepingbags and set up shop at the edge of the pool. It was so peaceful and beautiful and we could see the sun and the moon opposite each other over the Temple. The Golden 
Temple grew brighter and brighter and the fish came right up to our feet to watch us watch them. Every Sikh must always have the “5 K’s” on their person at all time. I don’t know what the proper K name is for them but they have to have a dagger or knife, a specific bracelet, a turban, some special underpants, and 
something else that I’m forgetting right now. While we were sitting at the Temple, Sikh men were taking their ritual baths with their huge swords and people who were up early enough were circumambulating the pool. The Temple attendants were very holy men with huge beards carrying spears. We desperately 
wanted pictures of these attendants so Becky posed for a picture in front of one so we could pretend we were taking a picture of her… 
7:15AM Parantas for breafast!!! It’s our favorite Punjabi food and we pretty much stuffed our face with them whenever we saw them on the street. I wanted to buy them in bulk and store them in my pockets and bathe in them, but I resisted. They are spicy crepe-like things filled with potato or cheese or cauliflower that is drowned in butter and spicy chic pea dal. It’s the most wonderful experience for the mouth. By this time we are so tired that we aren’t tired anymore and decide to walk around the city. We randomly ran into the Jallianwala Bagh memorial where the British famously massacred a peaceful Indian protest in 1919. It was really exciting to find it because we all remembered learning about it in school and never expected to find ourselves standing in front of it. It was a beautiful memorial with gardens and grassy areas. Interestingly, it wasn’t a solemn and distant memorial like what one would find in the West. It looked like a nice place to hang out in the sun and bring you kids to fly kites.
9:30AM Eventually we left Jallianwala Bagh and wandered around some more. It became increasingly apparent that we were the only white people in Amritsar as people blatently stared at us and wished us a Happy Valentine’s Day from windows three stories up. A man approached me and asked where I was from. I told him USA and he said he would love it if we came into his all-girls’ school to meet his students and have tea. We accepted and were immediately bombarded by girls who wanted “snaps” and our autographs and to shake our hands and wish us Happy Valentine’s Day (picture at right is me signing a girl's hand).
It 
was the most bizarre experience and we’ve never felt more loved on V-day. We check our watches 
thinking it’s dinner time, but its only 11 in the morning, so we go back to our humble abode and pass out. 1:30PM Wake up and return to the Temple for some relaxing introspection in the shade overlooking the pool. Seriously consider taking a swim, its 900 degrees. We decide that no pilgrimage to Amritsar is complete without taking a traditional communal lunch. Sikh temples always provide free meals and accommodations for travelers. It was some of the best food we’ve had on the trip yet. It was really amazing how efficient the lunches are. Hundreds of people file in, sit in neat rows on the floor, and people run by spilling dal and chipati (bread) into bowls (see picture to the right. Guy with bucket has dal, Becky and Elinor tucking in). Everyone eats 
quickly, leaves, and the next few hundred people file in and they do it all over again. On our way out we were stopped by a man offering tea. Its our 6th cup of tea of the day and a few minutes into it we find out that the group of men we are drinking tea with are very important and one is the mayor of Amritsar or something... Elinor lets it slip that she's single and Josh was just our classmate and she was instatnly swarmed with men...as was Josh. They really loved Josh and his tallness and blondness in this state. Eventually we were asked to leave because we were creating a scene and a traffic jam. As we left the building we were again swarmed with handshakes and "snaps" and happy valentine's day wishes and "this is my mother, and this is my sister, and this is my cousin-brother he is singer..."5PM Rickshaw to Durgiand...we think it was some kind of Hindi slash Sikh temple thing. Shindi temple? Anyway, it was awesome and they gave us straight up sugar clumps as offerings.
7:15 PM "Hey guys, what time do you think it is?" -Stacey
"9:30"-Elinor
"7:15!" -Stacey
"No way..." -Elinor
Ate some sketchy street chowmien for dinner #1. Didn't get sick. Sweet!
7:50 PM Went to "The Brother's" for dinner #2. GREAT food. Had the equivalent of 3 meals for about six bucks. Walked aroudn some more, found a dried fruit stand and loaded up for the roommates.
11PM Pass out.
Feb 15th
7:15AM "Wake up" and blink drearilly, strange guys sitting otuside our door watching us walk in and out to brush our teeth. They were the only guys in the courtyard...they really didnt have to be sitting right in front of our door.
8:20AM B-fast at same parantas place.
9:30AM Train to Pathankot. Just made it! About an hour into the ride we had a particularly long stop in front of a sugarcane field. Some young Sikh men got off and started to play sword fight with the sugarcane. They broght a bunch of stalks back onto the train and showed us how to chew them. We were sticky for the rest of the ride.
4PM Got back to Sarah in one piece dirty, travel worn, and sooo happy to be back. It was amazing how much we found we'd missed campus. Reveled in a bucket shower happily. Everyone was jealous of our adventures. We're pretty much the coolest people we know. End scene.
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